Abstract

A series of profiles across Martinique Beach, Nova Scotia, surveyed at monthly intervals between April and October, 1974, showed the formation and subsequent disappearance of large cuspate projections on the beach face. A theoretical model of the distribution of longshore currents on the beach was used to predict the expected positions of convergences and divergences in the longshore sediment transport. The observed projections were found to occur in positions of convergence of waves generated by the southeasterly winds, dominant in the late spring. The disappearance of the cusps was associaled with the seasonal veering of wind direction to the southwest as summer advanced.The size of the seasonal changes in beach profile suggests that the morphology of Martinique Beach is controlled primarily by storm waves.

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